The Archipelago

Fernando de Noronha is an example of environmental preservation, surviving side by side with the tourist activity. Unfortunately, with an inadequate infrastructure for tourism.

After a campaign led by environmentalist Jose Truda Palazzo Jr. in 1988, most of the archipelago was declared a National Park, with approximately 5.000 square miles, for the protection of a diversity of species. One animal is special: the spinner dolphins. They gather daily in Dolphin Bay - the best place in the world to observe these mammals.

This volcanic archipelago belongs, since 1988, to the state of Pernambuco and consist of 21 islands, islets and rocks, occupying an area of 14 square miles, situated in the Atlantic Ocean, east of Rio Grande do Norte. It is managed by a general manager appointed by the state government.

His main island, whose name is the same as archipelago, is the visible part of a submerged mountain chain, with an area of 10 square miles, lying 294 miles from Recife (PE) and 194 miles from Natal (RN). The base of this enormous volcanic formation is more than 4,000 meters deep and is 91% of the total area. Remarkable, also, the islands of Rata, Sela Gineta, Cabeluda (hairy), São José (St. Joseph) and the islets of Leão (Lion) and Viúva (widow). Studies indicate that the formation of the islands date from 2 to 12 million years ago.

The island had been discovered probably in 1500 by Gaspar de Lemos, or by an expedition which Duarte Leite mistakenly assigned command Fernão de Noronha, in 1501-1502. However, the first to describe the island was Americo Vespúcio, who participated in the expedition of Gonçalo Coelho.

The name (Fernando de Noronha) comes from the name of the archipelago's first owner, Fernão de Noronha, after donating from the Portuguese king D. Manuel I on February 16, 1504.

The place was raided a few times, notably in 1534 by the British, from 1556 until 1612 by the French in 1628 and 1635 by the Dutch, returning to the Portuguese control in 1700, to be regained by the French in 1736, and ultimately occupied by the Portuguese in 1737.

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Arrival

We made our reservation for accommodation (from 23 to 27 June 2009) in advance by the tour company Ilha de Noronha (www.ilhadenoronha.com.br) or Noronha Island in English. The travel package included the flight by TRIP airlines, five nights (four days) in the Atlantic Ocean Inn (breakfast included), transfer airport / inn / airport on the island and walking tour (with historic sites). Value: R$ 1,250.00 + R$ 31.20 (airport fee) per person in double room (about US$ 720). If you pay in advanced, you get a 6% discount. The deposit can be made at various banks, depending on the tour operator, or by credit card.

Our flight left from Natal (RN), at 11 a.m., and we landed at the island's airport at 1h20 p.m.. When we arrived, we took a shock, because our name did not appear in list of Costa Azul tour company. They usually wait the tourist in the airport and take then to their respective hotels. They found ours names and everything was correct.

The airport is small and the air conditioning is off. There's just a conveyor belt for baggage. We expected a better structure by the fact the Island be one of the most beautiful sights in the country.

Before you go to the islands, I strong recommend pay the Environmental Protection Tax (TAP in Portuguese). For more information, check the official website of Fernando de Noronha (www.noronha.pe.gov.br), the second link in the right corner of the page. The daily fee is charged and the value is too expensive: R$ 38.24 (about US$ 21.50). You can also pay on arrival, but in this case you can find a large queue at the airport. In addition to the payment vouchers of TAP, take the voucher printed ticket and accommodation, to avoid any hassle. The tour operator, responsible for the package, send it via email.

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Hosting

The tour agency offers few options for hotels. They all look alike in structure: simple rooms and small, wooden, with breakfast average.

We stayed at the pousada Oceano Atlântico (Atlantic Ocean Inn), located in the Floresta Nova (New Forest) district, and we do NOT recommend. The inn has a few rooms in the basement with no windows and unkempt. The walls were moldy and peeling, the electric part compromised (bad contact with wires showing and scrapers), a simple TV remote control did not work. Also, the breakfast is poor: only one type of cake, little variety of breads or crackers, and at most two types of juices. In a tropical country like ours, it might require more.

Upon entering, we were informed that at 17h00 the inn served as a tea / coffee and biscuits. The day I decided to go, saying it was not served because it was raining.

To do one of the rides, we had to go to another inn where the owner promptly called a travel agency. Where we were staying, there was no willingness to do so. Another couple lost a tour because the employee forgot to wake them up.

In the same neighborhood, visited other lodges that can indicate: the Fortaleza Inn anda and Maga Inn.

The lodgings are divided basically between the Vila dos Remédios (Remedies Village), Vila dos Trinta (Village of Thirty) e Floresta Nova (New Forest). There are other smaller villages.

The problem is the prices are high and the inns do not vary much from one to another. It's overrated, as the comfort, facilities, services provided and the meals are nothing but average. Not enough the price of hotels, food and water are very expensive. We pay two dollars per one small bottle of water. So, the hint is buy 1 liter bottles in the shop of the Village of Thirty.

The Administration of Fernando de Noronha classifies motel using the dolphin instead of a traditional hotel of the stars: a dolphin, two dolphins and three dolphins. The latter is the highest rate that an inn can have. Some are still in the classification process.

Upon leaving the island, you receive a form to evaluate the site where he was staying. It is valid as long as they may be passed on complaints and collected the improvements to the premises.

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Tours

There are, basically, Noronha Tours and boat ride. At first, the van (or minibus) pick you up ate the hotel and the tour guide leads you to the beach of Sancho, the Bay of Pigs, the Padre Cliff beach, Praia do Porto, ending the day at the beach Boldró to see the sunset. If it rains, the walk is divided and completed the next day. It costs about 40 dollars per person.

In the second ride, the boat leaves the port of St. Anthony, covering some islands and beaches to get to Dolphin Bay or Bay of Carreiro de Pedra, really worth it. It cost 42 dollars per person for approximately two hours tour. We had never seen so many dolphins. Can you take good pictures, with them jumping out of water.

In return, the boat in front of a rock, with crashing waves in his belly, appears to emit the sound of the roar of a lion.

To learn more about the place and visit all the beaches, the hint is to rent a buggy (unique type of car available in the Island), even though in some you have to terminate access by foot. We paid about US$ 55 per day. The island has only one road, the smallest in Brazil, with only 4 miles. Spending 6 dollars in fuel you can covers everything. Reminding that the fuel is expensive there, at the time, US$ 10 per gallon. There is only one gas station across the island, close to Caeira beach.

Trails

If you love to walk and contemplate a beautiful view, Noronha offers trails to admire the place. Importantly, these tracks require physical exertion of the participant, with several climbs in the hills. So make sure you are in good health before starting.

There are 5 tracks that can be visited. They are reached only with authorized guides.

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Beaches and Islands

The beaches are divided according to their location at “sea in” and “sea off”.

Praia do Sancho (inner sea) is considered the most beautiful beach and one of the best places in Brazil for the practice of free diving. In the spawning season of sea turtles, between January and June, is banned from six pm to six am. Access is not easy, being made from an iron ladder from the top of a cliff, stuck in the rock. The beach, however, is one of the few where the parade of boats allowed to shower, and an option for those who prefer not to go down the stairs. The boats usually stay docked about 40 minutes. The water is blue and sand, white.

Besides the staircase, there is another problem. The arrival to the stairs is also difficult, even worse in the rainy season. The journey by foot (the car can not follow) is full of potholes and mud. In this case, better to go or not scuff your shoes will recover more.

Some gravel or boulders would be enough to prevent the rise and rise of the holes, allowing an easy route for tourists. We asked the guide where it is invested, after all, the daily rate paid by each. The structure should be minimal. But we were left unanswered.

This is the first beach visited in Noronha Tours. Then, you go down to the Bay of Pigs (Baia dos Porcos, in Portuguese), where there are natural pools. It is good to care due to the presence of stones. The other stop is the beach of Cacimba do Padre (one of the most beautiful and great for bathing), in front of "Two Brothers", two large and high rocks.

For the afternoon is the Porto Beach and Boldró Beach, where it is customary to watch the sunset because of its location. The van leaves the tourists in some restaurants in the New Forest district of entry, such as the Restaurant of the Biu and Dolphin Restaurant. Very close to the Dolphin, there are two establishments. In Vila dos Remedios, has the Edilma Restaurant, which offers a dish of stewed shark. Experience. Very good! Italian restaurants are other options too.

From the top of the hill on the Boldró Beach, also sees the American Beach (Praia do Americando, in Portuguese), accessible only by boat.

The next day we did a boat trip to see dolphins. The boat leaves the Bay or Port San Antonio, with very calm water. It is possible to swim there and to see some fish.

The same day, afternoon, rent a buggy to know the other beaches on the island. We begin by Praia do Cachorro (Dog’s Beach), accessed by a stone staircase. Small but beautiful and excellent for swimming. It is surrounded by rocks. On the left side, is Meio Beach. On the right, the Biboca Beach. Are close to the Remedios Village, where you can park the car.

Going forward we find Conceição Beach, where is the Peak Hill, the reference point and postcard. With 323 meters high, is visible from any point on the island. The beach, longest, is also suitable for swimming. Until then, we got the car going down the highway until you reach a road in providing access to the site. We had to finish the walking path. The holes are so big and muddy (in some places the earth gave way), it is impossible to pass even being in a buggy. The beach is beautiful. There is a restaurant and a small hotel opposite.

We ate in Biu’s restaurant and in the afternoon we went to the Port and to the Hole of Rachel Beach and Caiera Beach, both opposite the port. The name Rachel is because a girl, suffering from mental disabilities, the daughter of a military commander. She hide in that place in times of crisis. The descent into the pools is not permitted to preserve the marine species that live there. It has a large stone to the sea. The Caiera Beach is beautiful, with a strong blue water and black sand, because of volcanic rocks. The walk to the beach must be done carefully.

We follow to the other side of the island, crossing the highway to the South East Bay. Historic region, the sea calm and green, with soft waves and rocks around. It houses the ruins of Fort San Joaquin Southeast. Here is the only oceanic mangrove island and is also where you can snorkel with sea turtles. In front of this beach, there are small islands.

On the opposite side lies the Atalaia Beach, which was closed when we went. Even when open, is allowed to have only 30 people at a time. True natural aquarium with lots of marine life and reefs.

Other beaches at Sea Inside: Bay and Port of Santo Antonio, Bode Beach, Quixabinha Beach and the Sapata Tip. At Sea Outside: Lion's Beach (which also happens to nesting turtles, and of Sancho's Beach) , and Caracas Tip and Air France Tip.

Other points of interest

In Remedios Village, you’ll see the Fort of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (you can climb on foot), the Church of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios and the São Miguel Palace. There is also the Fort of St. Anthony in Air France tip, and Fort San Pedro Boldró, betweens the Boldró Beach and American Beach.

Between the tip of Air France and the Hole of Rachel is the small Chapel of São Pedro (St. Peter). In front of the Hole of Rachel, the Shark’s Museum. At this site, a store with jaws theme and a snack bar, where you can taste the famous dumpling, made of shark, called "tubalhau”.

In the square near the Nova Floresta, across the highway, there is a shop that sells souvenirs.

There is a shop and two beauty salons in the Trinta Village (Village of Thirty), a pharmacy and a lottery agency in Remedios Village.

Other Islands

Rata Island (Rat Island)
It is the second largest island after island of Fernando de Noronha, formerly inhabited by those responsible for the old lighthouse when it was necessary to maintain human. There are the Pontal do Macaxeira and Lucena Island, that becomes another island in periods of high tide.

Island of Meio (Middle Island)
Located between the Rat island and the rock of Sela Gineta. His base is narrower than its top and the wave form cavities in the walls with the surf, being appreciated when coasting in the promenades.

Other: Rasa Island, the São José Island (St. Joseph Island), Couscous Island, Lucena Island, Chapéu do Nordeste Island (Northeast Hat Island), Cabeluda Island, Chapéu do Sueste Island (South East Hat Island), Ovos Island (Eggs Island), Trinta-Réis Island, Isle of Conception or Morro de For a (Outside Hill), Sela Gineta Rock, Two Brothers Rock, Frade Island Rock, Lion’s Hill Island Rock, Viuvinha Hill Rock and Pedras Secas Rock.

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Hints

Don’t forget

Shoes, sandals, sunscreen, hat or cap, sunglasses, swimwear, light clothing, insect repellent (to ward off mosquitoes frequently at the end of the day) and, as a precaution, a sweater. It is also advisable to take diving equipment, which can also be rented on the island. Will depend on your pocket. Very important: don’t forget the money (local currency).

U

nfortunately (if you can believe)

most stores and restaurants do not accept credit cards

. Santander Bank (in 2009) was the only bank with a branch on the island (Remedios Village) and there was no money exchange.

Best time to visit

In Fernando de Noronha, the average temperature is 26-28 º C (or 79 to 82 Fahrenheit), with only two seasons: a dry season (September-March) and a rainy season (April-August). This second one is characterized by sporadic rains interspersed by intense sun.

Flight information

From Recife - daily flights (14:30) by Trip airlines, using ATR-72 aircraft, and Gol airlines, using Boeing 737. The duration of the course is, on average, by one hour and half by Trip (propeller planes) and 50 minutes by Gol. The return flight departs at 1h35 p.m. to Recife.

From Natal - daily flights (11am) by Trip, also using ATR-72 aircraft. The duration of the course is, on average, by one hour and twenty minutes. To return to Natal, the plane leaves at 5h20 p.m.

Inconveniences

The lack of a hot bath is an inconvenient. If you do not like cold showers, arrive early at your inn and take bath. The water depends on the permanence of the sun. Once the sun goes down, the water cools. In the rainy season, you will only have cold shower.

Access roads to the beaches are in very precarious conditions. Excerpts holey, worn by erosion and muddy.

Lack evening entertainment: no cafe, or a gallery with shops, or a cinema (showing movies on DVD would be nice) or even a bookstore. Besides going to the beach, there is no other activity.

The airport needs to be restructured. Check in (in the island) is made from the parking lot.

Given this, it appears that the fee is not fair. Too much money is left there, since tourism is the main source of income from the island. However, the return of service and quality is little.

Environmental Preservation

Do your part by helping to preserve. Do not throw garbage, cigarette butts or other debris. Do not change the vegetation and collect seeds, roots and fruits, do not collect shells, coral, rocks, animals, or parts of organisms. Visit the areas of restricted use, only with permission. Do not swim or dive with dolphins, just outside the bay. It is also forbidden to stop ships in the vicinity of Dolphin Bay and camping, making fires and stay on the mainland. It is not allowed to walk on the reefs or write graffiti on trees, rocks or boards. Nature thanks you.

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